onsdag 29. mai 2013

Zip: Prepairing the zipper

This the first post of a series of posts regarding my pattern Zip. All of these posts will be in English This pattern was released as a part of Sockmadness 7 and will be available for everyone after the competition has ended. This post describes how I use a small crochet hook to prepair the zipper before knitting. 

I am using TechKnitters method to insert a zipper in a knitted garment. This is described in this youtube video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RnNFOQucals
You are going to knit on the zipper on every other row, so you need the «stitches» on the zipper to correspond to these rows. Measure your row gauge over 2 sts or use your gauge swatch to calculate the height of two sts:

Math! (you should be able to just add you own row gauge into this, but if math makes you run and hide, just measure the height of two stitches ;)
Row gauge: 10 cm = 100 mm = 40 sts (or your row gauge)
The height of one stitch is the number of mm divided with the number of stitches, to get the height of two sts, multiply by 2!
(add your own row gauge when doing these calculations)

Illustration 1: Mark the placement of the stitches

Mark on your zipper where you want the stitches. The first st should start at the top of the zipper. Make the next mark 5mm(or the distance you calculated) down along the zipper. (see Illustration 1) Continue in this fashion until you have made marks down to the place where the zipper stops.
Get out your small crochet hook (I used a 0.75 mm one) or knitpicker. Make the first stitch right next to the stopper on the lower end of the zipper. Stick the crochet hook (or knitpicker or other tool you find appropriate) into the mark from the front of the zipper and pull out a loop of yarn from the back. Put this on your needle and continue working stitches as shown in Illustration 2 to Illustration 5.

Illustration 2: First stitch added next to the zipper stopper

Illustration 3: stick the crochet hook into the next marked spot

Illustration 4: turn the work and grab the yarnwith the hook, and pull the yarn through to the other side

Illustration 5: put the yarn on the knitting needle and tighten the stitch up to the correct size

Illustration 6: Binding off stitches

You have the option to leave the stitches on a separate needle, but I found it easiest to bind them off to leave a row of bound off stitches on top of the zipper on both sides. See Illustration 7 When you have almost reached the top of the zipper bend the zipper bands down and make the stitches trough both layers of zipper band. This will make the end a bit neater. Excess band that sticks out to the side can be cut off. (Illustration 4 and Illustration 3)

Illustration 7: Bend the zipper band and stitch through both layers

Illustration 8: Pull the tread through the last stitch made so that the stitch doesn't unravel

Do this on both sides of the zipper, make sure that you have the same amount of stitches on either side of the zipper.
Your zipper is now ready to be knitted!